Saturday, December 22, 2012

Surviving Winter in Nippon

Contrary to popular belief, Japan is NOT futuristic in many ways.  From fax machines to giant cell phones, trains that stop running at midnight (not just here in the inaka but also in Tokyo) to no insulation\central heating.  Coming from Canada, I think this last one was the biggest shock.  Sure, I come from the prairies where the temperature can easily reach -60 with the windchill, but one of my favourite things about winter is coming from the refreshing, invigorating cold air into a steamy warm house.  It's quite the opposite in Japan; usually walking into my apartment at 10:30pm after working all day, the temperature is colder inside than the air outside.  My apartment this year seems to have some insulation as it doesn't seem as bad as last year, thank God.  I actually saw inside the wall of my apartment last year (don't ask why!) and there was NOTHING in it.  I remember walking out of the only heated room in my apartment and being able to write my name on the condensation on my fridge door.  However last year my bed was raised up and because hot air rises and cold air sinks it wasn't too bad.  This year, however, I sleep on the floor in true Japanese fashion and am freezing the majority of the time.  I've asked several Japanese people why they live like this and have gotten a variety of answers: money (to install, plus Japanese houses aren't made of stone and those don't last several hundred years), they like to 'wait out' the winter, it's not that bad (stop starting every conversation with 'Samui desune?' then!), the summer is too humid for insulation (it would get mouldy), etc., etc.  Instead of getting with the times and installing central heating and insulation, Japan has come up with a few ingenious and not so genius solutions to the answer, my favourite being the kotatsu.

I just got my first kotatsu last weekend and as anyone who is familiar with them knows, nothing has been done in my apartment since.  It's definitely something I'll consider sending to wherever I head next.  A kotatsu is really a pretty awesome invention and I'm surprised it hasn't come to Canada.  Wait a minute, no I'm not because I can move freely and warmly aboot my house all winter!  A kotatsu is basically a low table you sit on the floor at with a heater underneath.  You place a think futon between the two panels of the tabletop and BOOM!  Ridiculously cozy warmth that you never want to leave....the perfect setting for eating mikans, drinking hot sake, and watching anime. The newer ones have a cage around the heater so you don't have to worry about burning your legs, but it's still not recommended to sleep under one.  Plus it can be used as a regular table in the summer and I did need another table, only problem is, my tiny apartment is now full. The original idea of a kotatsu (the kind built into houses wear you sit and hang your feet over burning coals) was that the heat enters at the bottom of the traditional Japanese robe everyone used to wear, travels up the body, and exits at the top of the robe, warming the whole body.  I also like to stick my pet fish Ponyo chan under the kotatsu every now and then to warm him up...talk about multipurpose! I hope I don't forget about him and kick the bowl over or have him fry to death sometime...

Before my kotatsu, the only way I warmed my apartment was through my air conditioning unit which can be set to a heater as well.  Luckily every apartment I've lived in in Japan has been new and had one of these bad boys so I didn't have to buy one.  It cools the room down well in the summer but in the winter, all the heat tends to stay at the top of the room which is pointless in Japan, considering I spend 90% of my time on the floor.  To get it warm enough on the floor, I had to turn it up as high as it would go and leave it on all night, but then the electricity bill is ridiculous, especially considering costs were just raised another 8% in the fall, 'due to Fukushima'.  Plus the kanji on the remote is ridiculously hard to read, even for Nihonjin.
Another extremely popular method of space heating in Japan is a kerosene heater.  I really can't wrap my head around WHY anyone would use this.  Sure, it's cheap, but you have to constantly buy kerosene (which sucks if like most foreigners you don't have a car to go buy it), isn't exactly safe (fire wise or fume wise), and is a bit pointless considering you have to open a window to let the fumes out (considering there are no vents in the houses) so they don't kill you, thus letting cold air in.  Can you say oxymoron? Why not spend the little bit of extra money on an electric heater, be warmer and safer....surely your life is worth the extra $50?

And then there are the heated blankets, carpets, foot warmers, underwear and what not....basically electrically heated anything you can think of.  Other methods of temporary warmth include a ton of blankets, more layers of clothing than you would wear in a Siberian winter, cute panda humidifiers (Japanese winter is extremely dry and the Kitty chan one was too expensive!) to try and hold more heat in the air, hot baths or showers, hot water bottles, kairo (little heaty uppy packs you can put in your pocket that generate more heat than you would expect and for a surprisingly long time!  Or the adhesive type to stick all over your body.  Plus you can get cute kairo carriers, they are extremely cheap for the disposable kind, or you can get the kind you use over and over.  I have a reusable one in Canada and never thought to bring it...however it was from a Passion Party!), weather stripping, or winter proofing your windows (unless the only windows you have are your doors to your balcony and you need to open them periodically....or you're one of those with a kerosene heater who has to open your windows), moving to Hokkaido (land of heated sidewalks and insulation), or hanging out on the overly warm trains as much as you can (preferably local lines rather than shinkansen to keep the costs down).

Basically, Japanese winter, especially here in the Guch where it rarely goes below 0 isn't that bad, but it HAS turned me into a giant wuss.  Stay warm and be happy you have double paned windows! I'm also glad I'm not at a public school and turning on the heating in the rooms is my responsibility!

Thursday, November 1, 2012

There's a name for it!


Every now and then, I think of 'settling down'.  Having spent a little more than half my 20's outside of Canada and no plans of stopping anytime soon, this is probably one of my worst nightmares.  Maybe I should rephrase that to settling down in Canada is a nightmare of mine, considering I've pretty much settled down in Japan.  This is the longest I've ever stayed in a foreign country, job, or apartment.  Besides getting knocked up, I literally cannot think of something worse than getting a stamp in my passport that would cause me to not be able to leave Canada ever again (I apparently wasn't worried about this while working in multiple countries in Europe with no visa).  I had originally given myself until I was 30 to travel and then I would 'grow up'.  Well, 30 is fast approaching, in fact it's a mere 32 days away :O, so about a year ago, I decided 35 would be a better number.  Hey, a lot of working holiday/youth visas have the age limit of 35 so why not?  I'm obviously not the only one wasting my life away!

So, I wonder (and wander) a lot...what makes me different from other people?  Why are the majority of people in the 'developed' world content with the high school - university - career - marriage - babies - SUV - 3 bedroom house - 1.5 kids - family dog - 1 week vacation to Mexico every winter - lifestyle...something I dread?  Are they really content or are they just scared to live differently?  So many people have told me they wish they could live their life like I do, and I always have to ask, 'Why can't you?' There's more out there like me and I'm not talking the 22 year olds - fresh out of college - doing a gap year - calling themselves a traveler type.  What makes us tick?  And is there a point where it's gone too far?  Should there be 'traveler rehab'?  I'm sure my family would like to put me in it if there is!  

A few months ago, when I was starting to think there was something seriously wrong with me, I Googled 'addicted to traveling'. There were a few (but not many) results and is it turns out, there is such a thing as being addicted to travel.  In fact, there's even a name for it: dromomania! I'm sure I've Googled this before (I love Google and Googling everything) but I've never come across this word before.  It comes from the Greek dromos (running) and mania (insanity) and is also referred to as a Fugue state.  It is used to describe a person who has sudden uncontrollable urges to wander, but these bouts come with temporary amnesia. The traditional cases were almost all in France, where people would suddenly set out on foot, reaching cities as far away as Prague and Vienna.  Oftentimes, they remembered nothing of their travels, had different personalities/names/occupations and also had some other mental disorders, such as Borderline personality disorder.  There's an interesting story found here about perhaps the first ever documented pathological traveller.  In a more modern, broader sense, dromomania refers to someone who can't stop travelling, at the expense of careers, school, family, and their social life.  It can also be called 'mad travelers disease'. 

Now, I don't think I have a mental disorder (some may beg to differ), but I do find I change depending on where I am.  Simple, obvious things change, such as fashion (for example in Australia I was a hippie, here in Japan I am literally OBSESSED with Hello Kitty), but there are deeper changes.  In my younger days, I was the life of the party and now as I get older I'm more content with who I am and satisfied with my own company or just being in the background of parties. This is of course not a result of a mental disorder, but of how travelling changes a person, and helps them get to know themselves better (as cliche as that may sound, it's true).  

So I'm pretty sure I'm a dromomaniac: I get itchy feet if I'm somewhere to long, I yearn for the excitement and hustle and bustle of an airport, I've never had the same job twice, I act differently when I'm abroad, I've broken off almost every relationship to go travel, I barely ever go the same place twice, and I've definitely drank enough on many, many nights to induce temporary amnesia.  There is a certain comfort though, to returning some place you've been before, and for a traveler, sometimes going to a city you've been once or twice is almost the same as a 'regular' person coming home.  You understand the public transport, know the currency, maybe have a favourite food or someone to visit.  
 
One night while I was living in a small hostel on the shores of Loch Ness I remember having a drunken conversation about what drives a person to make a career of travelling.  My companion believed he travelled because he felt he wasn't interesting enough living back in Brea, CA, and being just like everyone else.  He travelled so he would have stories and be an interesting person.  In his own words 'It boosts my self esteem and makes me feel cool.  Plus, it's easier to get laid in a foreign country.' Ah, words of the wise.  So, to you travellers or wanna be travellers out there:  Why do YOU do it?  Why aren't you satisfied with a regular life?  Do you think you will ever stop?  If so, what would make you want to stop?  I'm still searching for my answers to these questions, perhaps that's why this blog has a billion question marks...
 


Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Footloose??!!


Countries are often stereotyped around the world, some good and some bad.  Canadians are stereotyped as being friendly and saying 'eh' a lot, Americans as being loud, the Australians for maybe partying just a little too much.  Japan is known for really loving cute things, Godzilla, and being a bit weird.  I've maybe gotten used to seeing strange things in the year and a half I've been here.  I barely even bat an eyelid  when I see a Harajuku girl or someone walking around in a Pikachu jumpsuit, and I especially don't take pictures of these things like I did at first!  This past weekend, I have to admit I was a bit shocked when I found out a law I never knew about in Japan: 'late night' dancing is apparently illegal!  We've all heard strange laws: apparently it's illegal to catch a fish with your bare hands in Saskatoon, or to pay for a 50 cent item with only pennies, but NO DANCING!!??  Maybe I was so shocked because I HAVE been out clubbing since coming to Japan, so how is it against the law?  But then I learned the police have been cracking down on it a lot more in the last year or so (maybe they're bored because of the low crime rates here and have nothing to do?).  Even when I've asked a lot of Japanese friends about it, they had no idea this is against the law.  Trust a foreigner to know more about another country! (I say this because I know nothing about Canada)

The way I found out was this: It was a friend's birthday and we were planning on renting a beach hut on Nokonoshima (an island just off Fukuoka). We cancelled due to the threat of a typhoon coming through that night and maybe becoming stranded with no food the next day with no ferry to bring us back to the mainland (or in Japan, basically, the bigger island). Because Big Bang (a K-pop group) was in town for a concert, we could not find a hotel or hostel or anywhere for us to stay in (not even the Hilton had a free room, yes we checked), especially considering there were a dozen of us. So we discussed our options for the night: party on the beach till dawn and take the first shinkansen home (what if it rains??!!), rent a karaoke room and eventually sleep in it when we're all karaoke'd out (no shower, blankets, etc.), a love hotel for a few hours (not enough guys to go around, apparently they only accept heterosexual couples, so no same sex couples, no group orgies and no singles), manga cafe (basically sleeping in a wank cubicle, ew), capsule hotel (usually prejudice against women), calling every Japanese person we know in the city to see if they'll take us (no one wanted all of us :( ), clubbing till dawn (can't anymore, late night dancing is illegal in Japan now)....the options are literally endless in Japan....wait, WHAT!!?? How is dancing illegal in Japan??!! This must be some kind of joke! But, nope, it sure isn't.

So I thought I would do some internet research to find out why. It turns out the law is called the Entertainment Business Control Law (Fūzoku Eigyō Torishimari Hō) and it was made after the end of World War II in 1948 when Japan was basically going crazy with their 'hostess' clubs and gambling.  The no dancing addition was added in 1984. Businesses can allow dancing but they have to spend a lot of money getting permission and meet a lot of criteria, such as having a big enough space (66 square feet or more to be exact) which can be difficult in a country where space is limited and very expensive.  So most little 'hole in the wall' live music venues cannot even apply for the permit.  Along with a permit for dancing and serving liquor, they also need one for serving food...so because Tokyo is such a huge city, clubs do still but exist, but in smaller cities (even big cities like Osaka and Fukuoka) it's now less common than it was a year ago and clubs have closed down and owners been arrested for 'non-licensed dancing'.  Which maybe explains why I have gone clubbing in the likes of Fukuoka, Tokyo, Kyoto, and smaller cities in the time I've been here but now it's all changing and the cops are tired of turning a blind eye! Can you say Footloose???  So why suddenly start cracking down after ignoring it for 60 years?  Apparently the cops are using it as an excuse to get to more serious problems of underage drinking, drug use and the like, by sending in undercover cops and all.  But really...none of these things are a huge threat to society like they are in other parts of the world, which leads me to believe they are just bored with their nearly crimeless society....so along with all the other things I enjoy (they shall remain nameless) and can't do in Japan, I can add clubbing all night.

And in case you're wondering, four of us found a tiny hotel room at 1am that let us sleep on the floor in it, some went home for the night, some stayed up all night karaokeing, and all were safe and sound...this IS Japan you know, not exactly crime central!  Happy birthday Kris, it was one to remember if nothing else! :)

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Hockey Morning in Japan

Having grown up in Canada, I developed a love for hockey.  This is very stereotypical of me, I know!  Many Canadians don't love hockey, as everyone thinks we do.  However, when certain games come around, such as the Olympic gold medal game, or the NHL Stanley Cup finals, everyone tends to gather around the TV with family and friends.  A big part of culture is defined by sport, such as many countries around the world and their love for cricket or football.  As Canadians, we have very long, cold winters where communities often gather by frozen ponds or skating rinks.  Growing up on a farm beside a lake, I was lucky enough to have my own outdoor skating rink for my friends to come over and skate on.  My dad would clear the lake off with the tractor once the ice was thick enough.  We even went skating at school for P.E. every week, rather than learning to swim (my town was too small for a pool till I was in high school).  I was a half decent skater as a kid even though I never played hockey or ringette, but when I went home a few winters ago and went skating I was horrible!  Every town, no matter how small has a skating rink.  I know of villages with a population of 50 with no post office but they have a skating rink!  There's nothing better than spending a crisp winter afternoon outside skating and coming in to a cup of steaming hot chocolate.


Now, to those outside of North America, this may seem like a weird topic to write about at the start of summer, but the professional hockey season actually runs from September to June - providing hockey for enthusiasts for almost the whole calendar year!  This past Tuesday morning was the final game of the season (Monday night in Canadian time), so I spent my morning watching the game on my computer, thanks to the help of my nifty little illegal program that changes my IP address to a Canadian one so I can stream Canadian channels on my computer.  Now, I'm not a super obsessed fan; I know a few players and some rules but I would by no means claim to be an expert.  I simply just love cheering with a beer in my hand and enjoying Don Cherry's obscure outfits.  When I was back in Canada in March, I went to my first NHL game in Edmonton and I've never felt more proud to be Canadian as when I stood in the cold rink, Molson in hand, hearing the national anthem on the speakers.  My team (the Edmonton Oilers) is not a very good team so they are not in the finals and I normally wouldn't be watching.  What made these finals exciting enough for me to watch is that one of the players for the L.A. Kings, Dwight King, #74, is a kid I rode the big yellow school bus with everyday!  To see a family's dreams come true after all the years of travelling and all the money spent is amazing.  It's such an inspiration to see someone you knew as a kid, who worked so hard and grew up in such a small place with big dreams, to have them come true. The town we're from is small - maybe 5,000 people at most - and over the years, there's been 6 professional players come out of it, including my second cousin. This is a lesson for all of us, you can do anything you put your mind to if you want it bad enough!  It's pretty cool to think the Stanley Cup will be making it to lil old Meadow Lake this summer, and even better yet, to Bear Creek.  It's one of those rare times I would have liked to have been back in Canada.

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Mother's Day




  Because I'm so busy lately and never blog, I've decided to start re-posting my blogs I have to write on my work website (http://ecm-japan.jugem.jp/?month=201205) every week, unless they're super boring and school related.  Please note they are G rated :( This one is from about a month ago and has been slightly altered...

This past Sunday in Japan, as well as many other countries around the world, was Mother's Day.  When I've been asking students what they will do to thank their mother for all her hard work, some have said they will give her flowers (specifically carnations), some have said cook dinner for her (most often meal when asked what is curry rice), or give other types of presents, and some have said they will do nothing.

In Canada, there is no 'traditional' gift for Mother's Day.  Most people in Canada are originally from another country and usually follow in the traditions of their heritage.  As children, we often do some sort of craft in school to give as a gift.  As we get older, we give cards, chocolate, or flowers, or do something such as cook dinner, clean the house, or give a back massage.  The list goes on and on. 

Now that I'm older, I can truly appreciate all my mother did for me.  She was a teacher and vice-principal for over 30 years and was up early everyday and often didn't go to bed till late at night.  She always had a spotless house, healthy homecooked food on the table (we virtually never ate at a restaurant), a huge garden and beautiful yard (no easy feat on a big farm).  Besides being a dedicated teacher, she was also the best mother I could hope for.  She helped with my homework, taught me responsibility, the value of hard work and being unselfish, how to make strudel and sauerkraut, was a shoulder to cry on, and a stern hand when I needed it.  As I got older, she helped me learn my own limits by allowing me to go out on the weekend with my friends, but I still got no special treatment the next day and had to be up early the next morning to do my part on the farm.  My mother was more than a mother; she was a role model, a mentor, a confidant, my best friend, and encouraged me to be all I can be.  I miss her everyday since she passed away nearly five years ago and wish I had the chance to tell her how much she really meant to me.  I can only hope she's proud of me and the choices I've made without her to guide me in the right direction.  Being a teacher, even if it's not something I do my entire life, is special to me because it's how my mother chose to spend her life.  It makes me feel closer to her in a way, even if it's sometimes hard when I want to call her to ask her advice on what to do about something.

I can't wait to have you tell me all about your mothers, why they're special to you, and what you did for them.  And if you didn't do anything special on Sunday, don't worry, it's not too late!  You can thank your mother every day of the year, not just on one designated day, I know she'll appreciate it.  Mother's Day is not just for your mothers, but for anyone who has nurtured and supported you in some way along your path, whether it be a grandmother, babysitter, friend's mother, aunt, boss, etc. Have a good week and remember to give your mum a hug the next time you see her!  I would give up anything to spend just one more minute with her; you don't know what you've got till it's gone!

Ziggy 

Monday, May 7, 2012

When in Rome...

Read at your own risk: the following post is going to be more of a rant about something that has been bothering me so if you claim you're a traveller and are of a sensitive nature, I suggest you stop reading now.  I don't really know where to start so I'll just delve right into it by saying: A country is made for its people, not for the tourists who come for a few weeks, and not for ex-pats like myself who come for a few years.  Japan is built for Japanese people, Brazil for Brazilians, Nigeria for Nigerians, and so on.  English has/is becoming the 'global language' but that doesn't mean every single person on Earth is going to be fluent.  When I first moved to Japan, I prepared myself for the worst.  I expected every single thing to be in Hiragana, Katakana, or Kanji.  So when I saw words spelled out in Romaji and even better yet, English words, I was beyond excited.  Maybe it's because when I went to Greece, I was so shocked that everything was in, well, Greek (silly naive me).  So now I'm ecstatic when I'm able to find Skippy peanut butter or Heinz ketchup here, or better yet, sauerkraut!  I'm grateful I can flip a McDonalds menu over and find English (even though I hate McDonalds, I find it somewhat comforting at times while travelling because of the familiarity...but that's a whole other blog...).  I'm grateful that something like 11% of Japanese words are imported from other languages, so I can instantly say things like coffee, banana, mansion, and consent (even though the meaning is ever so slightly different).  I'm grateful for these little quirks, but I've not come to take them for granted, nor do I expect it.  When you set out on an adventure somewhere as a backpacker or expat, you should expect things to not make sense, to feel uncomfortable at times, to not understand, for it to be a challenge, you mentally and physically prepare yourself for it.  If it's not different from your home country, then where is the fun and learning experience in it?

We've all met that tourist, whether at a hostel, in a tour group, or *gasp* someone we are travelling with.  That person who loudly complains that nobody speaks English, there's no English signage, there's no ketchup, they can't read the train schedule, the bus schedule is shite.  Guess what?  It works for the people who live here.  And in this day and age of smart phones, Hyperdia, GPS, Google Maps, etc. there's really no excuse for this kind of ignorant behaviour.  We've also all seen that person speaking to someone who obviously doesn't understand and saying things louder and more slowly as though they're speaking to a deaf child, thinking they're magically going to suddenly understand English. Maybe we've even done it ourselves. Granted, my Japanese is absolute shite but I at least try and I never travel anywhere without my trusty dictionary, phrasebook, or Kanji app.  In a real pinch, I use my call-a-Japanese-friend lifeline.  But thank goodness, most Japanese people speak much better English than I expect my Japanese to ever be and if they don't, in this crowded country, someone who can help is sure to be nearby.  A Japanese person will never walk away, letting us get lost; they will get everyone on the street involved to help before that happens! When I travel around Japan, the majority of people I meet at hostels and on tours and at bus stops are tourists - from Japan.  They have a beautiful country and they are seeing it, which is more than I can say for myself - I've basically never travelled in Canada, except to Toronto or Vancouver airport to exit or enter the country.  So it makes sense to have everything in Japanese, besides the fact that WE'RE IN JAPAN!  Whenever I've seen Japanese tourists abroad, they're always trying to speak English, or they're in a Japanese tour group, and guess what?  They never come up to me speaking Japanese, so why can't we do the same?  All I'm asking is that you try.

So to those (and this is mainly expats, tourists can be slightly forgiven for not understanding the country so well) who constantly complain and compare and do not want to take advice from those who have been here longer than a few months: If you really feel the need to complain so much, maybe you're not happy here and should leave, you're taking a great opportunity away from someone who really wants it and will benefit from it.  Language is a huge part of learning about a culture and a country, and not just for communication.

Peace out yo, I promise my next blog will be more upbeat...Happy end of Golden Week and back to work!